Chapter Thirty Seven: Biodiversity is around us

This week, we are thinking about biodiversity. Getting to spend some extra time in the Rupununi is always a treat. There is so much to see, and being able to explore a bit more of the tourism side of it gives a completely different experience.

The major highlight this time was getting to do more in the savannahs. Seeing the giant anteaters out there was incredible. The landscape itself is breathtaking. Sunrise and sunset on the savannah are easily among the most beautiful things about Guyana. If you are someone who loves sunrises, they are always worth waking up for, and if you prefer sunsets, they almost always deliver. The light stretches wide across the open land, and the air feels alive.

We were hoping to spot some anteaters, and the cowboys at the ranch helped keep an eye out for them. They know where the animals usually pass through, since they are not exactly walking down the main road with a sign. There are probably only three or four anteaters that move through the property and the area around Karanambu.

We were lucky enough to see two on our morning trips. The first was a younger one, a bit smaller and wandering around, maybe looking for a shady place to rest for the day. The second was a full-grown adult, big and beautiful, with all its markings clear in the morning light. It came within about twenty feet of us. Watching it move through the grass was amazing. Anteaters are nocturnal, so in the morning, they are just looking for a quiet spot to sleep. It almost looks like a tired teenager wandering home after a long night out. They eventually find a big tree or some thick brush to curl up under and rest until evening. Seeing them in their natural habitat, just doing their thing, felt really special.

The savannah is home to so much more wildlife than you might expect, though most of it is not easy to spot. A lot of the animals are migratory, moving between habitats depending on the season, so you often have to sit and wait in the heat if you want to see something rare. The forests nearby are a bit cooler, but the savannah has its own energy. I was hoping to spot a lesser anteater, which is even harder to find since it stays up in the trees.

We did see plenty of birds. They were everywhere: three different types of herons, several egrets, and so many kingfishers and skimmers. There were eagles, vultures, and hawks, all gliding over the river and across the plains. I could not name all of them, but the sheer number and variety were impressive. On our boat rides along the river, birds flew past constantly. You see groups of hawks circling, herons stalking along the edges, and flashes of bright colour as kingfishers dive for food. It is the kind of abundance that makes you realize how alive the landscape is.

The biggest surprise was the giant otters. We saw about half a dozen baby ones near their nest. They seemed young, still small, and were grooming each other and playing near the water. They were partly hidden by branches and thin trees, so my photos did not turn out as well as I hoped. The camera struggled to focus through all the clutter. My parents and my partner managed to get better photos on their phones, since the phone cameras handled the light and focus better. Still, even without perfect pictures, just watching the otters together was amazing.

I did get some great bird photos, though, and I am proud of those. Looking back at them, they capture the colour and movement of the place. It is always rewarding to be able to share those small glimpses of how much life exists out there.

Of course, it would not be a trip to the Rupununi without the bugs. The biodiversity here includes everything mosquitoes, cockroaches, beetles, and more. They are all part of the system and thriving in their own way. You notice it, but you also come to appreciate it as part of the larger picture of how balanced everything is.

Being out in the savannah and along the river reminds you how connected everything is. Each animal, bird, and insect plays its role in this network of life. Spending time here gives you a new perspective on how these systems function and how we fit into them, even when we are just visiting.

The Good

The good is always the food. The chefs at Karanambu Lodge took such good care of us, and every meal felt special. Getting to enjoy that after a long day out exploring was a highlight in itself.

The Challenge

The challenge was definitely the heat. It is no joke when you are out in the sun for hours each day. Staying hydrated and keeping cool takes effort, but it is part of the experience.

What’s Next

What’s next is heading back to the city and getting ready to return to work. I still have a few more days with my family before they go, so I am trying to make the most of it while settling back into a routine.